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Ama Dablam - Island Peak Expedition

Ama Dablam - Island Peak ExpeditionThe normal route to climb Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak lying in the Everest region. This South – West ridge is the normal and most popular route in order to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam.

In addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible.

The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.

Ama Dablam is considered to be the technical & difficult & challenging peak for all the mountaineers. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal start/end with the Lukla. It involves a cultural & exciting trek up to the base camp & also involves technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of world’s highest & famous mountains.

Named "Island Peak" in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed "Imje Tse" in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to summit. From base camp, we will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. We will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. Again, stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.

Trip Itinerary

Day 01: Transfer to hotel from airport
Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 02: Trek from Samari Bhanjyang to Katunje Bazaar (765m.)
Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding. Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding. Early in the morning you will be driven from hotel to Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular flight you will land to Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and you walk for about 2 and half to 3 hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.)

Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.)
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries on the way of trekking to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Namche is the main trading village in the Khumbu region and holds a busy Saturday market. There is set a meeting place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have reached there by crossing the glaciated Nangpa La.

Day 05: Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization and excursion
Rest at Namche Bazar for acclimatization and excursion around the places. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar. Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk upto Khunde Hospital which was set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Centre and Museum just above the town.

Day 06: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.)
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche. From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. Now you have a glimpse of first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Although exhausting due to the zigzag path, the trek has numerous attractions like rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds chirping and superb mountain scenery making your trek exciting. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region.

Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.)
Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.). You gradually descend through a forest, cross the Imja Khola and climb steadily up to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite to Ama Dablam [6,856 m], and has exceptional views of the mountain, with the Gompa, Mani walls and scattered pine trees in the foreground. As you gradually ascend, you do find thick forests as the trail is full of thorny and juniper bushes. A further two and half hour’s walk brings us to Dingboche. Here you can see Sherpa people working hard in the agricultural farm.

Day 08: Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization


Day 09: Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.)
Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.). The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestock’s in summer time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful mountain views in and around the valley.

Day 10: Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m)
Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m). You trek through gradual ascent path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and many others.

Day 11: Set the high camp.


Day 12: Climb the Island peak and back to base camp.


Day 13: Trek from Base camp to Pangboche
Trek from Base camp to Pangboche. After descending along the trail to Chhukung, we continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then another couple of hours to the lovely village of Pangboche where we'll camp for the night.

Day 14: Rest at Pangboche.


Day 15: Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Lunch at Pangboche and continue trek to Base camp, Sherpa staff will set the base camp & Expedition members take relax.

Day 16: Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Summit to the top. You have full 17 days to make the summit on the top of Mt Ama Dablam with support of our experienced climbing sherpa.


Base camp (4600 m):
Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

To yak camp (5400 m):
We use yaks to carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves us three to fours hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.

To camp I (5800 m):
Your first real camp is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.

Camp I to Camp II (6000 m):
Now you are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.

Camp II:
Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!

Camp II to Camp III (6300m):
Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.

Camp III:
A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.

Summit day:
The initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.

Day 30: Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche.
Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.

Day 31: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.)
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.). Stay overnight at lodge. The trails descend steeply for early one and half hours. After that, the path has small ups and down to Phakding through Monjo.

Day 32: Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m)
Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m). Stay overnight at lodge. Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla.

Day 33: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 34: Rest day in Kathmandu
Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 35: Fly out from Kathmandu.

Service Includes

  • Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS)
  • Licensed and trained trek leaders
  • Trekking Helper for carrying goods and supplies
  • All accommodation during the trek
  • All meal and hot beverages
  • All necessary douments and permits for trekking (where applicable)
  • National Park/Conservation Area entry permit
  • Equipment such as sleeping bag, tents and mattress
  • Cooking equipment
  • Camp-site charges
  • Insurance, medication, and equipment for staff
  • Coordination of Quick Rescue service (costs covered by your Insurance plan)

Service Excludes

  • Travel/trekking insurance
  • Airport departure tax
  • Rescue charge
  • Drinks (Cold & Alcoholic)
  • Expenses of personal nature


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